Improvement in sewing turns



MCKAY 6L BLAKE.

Sewing. Turn.

. APalnterd May 3,1186@ -Z'v 6 rai/Lora.

N. PETERS. Pnmu-Lillmgmplmr. wumngmr Inc.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

I GORDON MCKAY, OF BOSTON, AND LYMAN R. BLAKE, OF QUINOY, ASSIGN- ORS TO GORDON MCKAY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMVPROVEMENT IN SEWING TURNS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 42,022, dated May 3, 1864.

tion suflicient to enable those skilled in the art. Yto practice it.

1n sewing turns-. e., boots and shoes put together wrong side out, and then turned so as to present the proper faces outermost upon the Blake machine, patented July 6, 1858, or the McKay and Mathies modification of it, patented August 12, 1862, it is difficult to form the seam at an even distance from the edge of the sole, which is covered from sight 'by' the material of the vamp, the edge of the4 sole being illy detined through the thickness of thevvamp where it turns over the edge of the sole, and being also shown indefinitely by reason of the varying thickness of the vamp, by stitfening or counter-pieces and by seams in the Vamps. To remedy' this difficulty and to secure the formation of a seam through the sole parallel to its edgein machine-served turns which have their Vamps and soles united by stitches passing through both sole and vamp, we hay@l invented a new process or method of operation, which consists in the employment of a pattern upon or formed ont of that surface of the sole which appears outermost in the finished article, so that by the impingement or contact of the edge of this pattern or guide against a rest or gage on a suitable bed of a sewing-machine the distance of the seam from the edge of the sole is regulated.

In the practice of our invention the procedure is as follows: Before the sole is secured to the last, with the surface ultimately to be outermost in the finished article placed next the surface of the last, we secure a thin pattern of meta-l, wood, leather, or other suitable material to the sole and upon its said surface. This pattern is of a thickness about uniform with the height of a ring-gage which surrounds the needle-hole in the arm or horn -of the Blake orMcKay and Mathies machine be- *fore mentioned; and where it is desired to have the seam formed parallel with the edge of the sole all around the pattern is made to fall short of the edge ot' the sole the distance desired of the seam from the edge plus the radius of the described ring or gage. When the seam is to be hidden on the finished snr` face of the sole the guide, operating as de scribed, is formed as follows: A cut is made'v in and around the edge of the sole of any desired thickness from tlief'surface to be finished, not exceeding the height ofthe ring-gage on the a'rin or hrn,and to a depth from the edge equal to the distanre of the seam therefrom plus theiradins ot' the said ring-gage. This flap thus formed is turned upward and baci' upon the surface of the sole to be finished, and,vl heilig rubbed or pressed down while damp, forms the pattern described, or a substitute therefor,which, when the sewing is performed, hides it from sight on the finished surface ot the sole, the fiap being replaced and cemented in the position .which it naturally occupies.

The pattern formed ofthe flap as described may be combined with the separate pattern of suitable Vmaterial before mentioned, the pattern being secured to the solerand upon the top of the Hap and increasing the thickness of the guiding-edge. This modification may be employed to advantage where the flap isv made quite thin. v

Referring to the drawings, Figure l shows in section enough of the end of the horn and parts of a shoe to illustrate our invention. (o is the' sole, b the pattern, c the vamp, and d the horn. c .is the ring-gage on or forming a part of the horn and surrounding the hole iiito which the needle passes at each stitch to receive the thread. The line marked f on the sole denotes that surface of the sole which,- when the shoe is turned and finished, comes outermost.

Fig. 2 is the saine as Fig. 1, except that a flap, g, is, cut and turned over, as described before, so as to serve the purpose of the pattern b.' One ot' the .nails temporarily used to tack 'the'vamp and sole together is shown at 4h, and ano-ther used tocontne the patternl to the sole is shown at i. Nails h are withdrawn before the shoe is tnrned,and nails t' are withdrawn afterward. The red line shown upon the vamp represents the lining, which, after Executedby'vus this 26th Aday 'of J anuary,'

A. D. 1864. A.

GORDON MGKAY. LYMAM R. BLAKE.

Witnesses:

F. GoULD,

S. B. KLDDER. 

